One of the most difficult garments in men’s clothing, they require the right craftsman and it’s not just about luxury, but about specialization. You recognize them at first glance. They are perfectly cut, sewn with surgical precision and soft to the touch. A good shirt is an art that still exists today, although it is very expensive. If you think that behind good shirts, there is necessarily a well-known luxury house, you might be wrong. Prestigious shirts are usually found in specialized tailors and crafts with history and knowledge. The prices in these cases may far exceed your financial expectations, but the answer is one and specific: they are worth it.
100 Hands, Amsterdam
Its name comes from the fifty artisans who have been involved in the making of each handmade shirt since the brand opened in the Dutch capital. This Amsterdam-based label has become a cult favorite among sewing enthusiasts, who rave about its exquisite fabrics, hand-made construction and meticulously hand-embroidered buttonholes. It was founded 10 years ago by Akshat Jain and Varvara Maslova to showcase the art of Indian artisans. Each shirt takes up to 36 hours to complete at the company’s factory in Amritsar, northern India. Prices start at around €400 and are available at department stores such as Harrods, Bergdorf Goodman and the brand’s online shop. Custom selections are made through exhibitions in London and New York, while The New York Times has described the brand as the best shirtmakers in the world.
www.100hands.nl, @100hands/Instagram
Atelier Fasan, Berlin
Founded in 1950, it is literally one of the last traditional, handmade shirt manufacturers in the city. “There is no wish unfulfilled,” says Heinrich Sabielny, the current owner of the brand, in an interview. His words are supported by Tom Cruise, Tom Hanks and many other stars of the American scene who admire the quality of their excellent production. The excellent fabrics come exclusively from selected producers from Switzerland, Italy and England. Their collars are offered in a variety of 15 different types and the prices for the shirts start from 250 euros, reaching in some cases 1,500 euros.
www.fasan-berlin.de, Atelie Fasan/Facebook
Battistoni, Rome
The luxury menswear atelier was founded in the Eternal City in 1946 and made its name with its well-designed, luxurious shirts. It still makes them in a small atelier above the founder’s beautiful house on Via Condotti. Battistoni eschews flashy patterns as the brand’s philosophy is completely different from the menswear scene in Naples and as its representatives state: “Excellence is a journey”. Prices start at 550 euros and in addition to the Rome store you can contact them by email.
www.battistoni.com, @battistoniofficial/Instagram
Drake’s, London
One of the most traditional and beloved brands of the English. Known for the perfect Oxford shirts (considered the masters of this style) which are made in the company’s factory in Somerset. Their handmade shirts are dominated by unique details, such as single seams, exclusively ivory buttons and usually relatively large collars, while they are characterized by their great durability over time. Drake’s was founded by Michael Drake in East London in 1977, a short walk from the city’s silk weaving roots in Spitalfields. Prices start at 300 euros.
www.drakes.com, @drakesdiary/Instagram
Bel y Cía, Barcelona
A fine menswear brand founded in 1842 with its signature details, such as two cotton loops at the back of the collar to hold the tie in place, and formal shirts with no placket or Mao collars in their own unique style. They use high-quality linen produced in Ireland, and many of their designs are so unique that you won’t find them anywhere else. Especially for the summer (resort) shirts, the variety exceeds all expectations, while prices start at 425 euros.
www.belycia.com, @belycia1842/Instagram
Ascot Chang, Hong Kong
Dating back to 1953 on Kimberley Road, the brand is known worldwide for its roots in the Shanghai and Hong Kong tailoring tradition. Today, it is run by Tony, Lincoln and Justin Chang, the second and third generations of the family business, who continue the legacy with their renowned bespoke services, which are offered in stores in Hong Kong, mainland China, New York and the Philippines. They are also known for their collection of ready-to-wear Ascot collar shirts, designed to be worn without a tie. Prices start at €230.
www.ascotchang.com, @ascotchang/Instagram
Bourrienne Paris X, Paris
Housed within the ornate grounds of the 18th-century Hôtel Bourrienne, this Parisian atelier, which opened in 2017, draws its design style from French thinkers and writers such as Victor Hugo and François-René de Chateaubriand, who would engage in philosophical discussions in the hotel’s grand salon while wearing their puffy linen shirts. The heavy Normandy linen, cotton poplin and high-quality workmanship have established the label as one of the best in the largely handmade production in competitive Paris, with prices starting at €290.
www.bourrienne.com, @bourrienneparisx/Instagram
Budd, London
Harold Budd founded his brand 115 years ago in Mayfair. Custom shirtmaking is at the heart of Budd and is the brand’s cutting edge, with shirts cut and hand-made to each customer’s unique set of measurements and style requirements. Budd’s representatives borrow the words of the famous composer Johannes Brahms to emphasize the importance they place on excellent craftsmanship: “Without craftsmanship, inspiration is a mere reed swaying in the wind.” They consider the shirt to be one of the most essential and important components of our appearance, acting as a canvas that can set the tone for the rest of our outfit. Budd now offers over 1,000 different shirt designs to its customers, with prices starting from around €300.
www.budshirts.co.uk, @buddshirtmakers/Instagram
Charvet, Paris
The Parisian brand is in a way a paradise for aesthetes from all over the world. It was founded in 1838 and is still a family business. It has a philosophical-aristocratic depth to the essence of its operation, which is why the customer will have a long discussion with the tailor who will take care of it, about the appropriate length of the collar, its proportions and the position of the monogram on the shirt he will order. Charvet pays such great attention to detail that it has more than 400 shades of white fabrics in its collection. The price for a bespoke shirt starts at around 600 euros and can easily exceed 1,000 euros.
www.charvet.com, @charvet_official/Instagram
Emma Willis, London
Emma studied fine art before starting her own business in 1989. In 1999 she opened her elegant and intimate shop on Jermyn Street, on the corner of St. James’s, and in 2010 she opened her English shirtmaking studio in the heart of historic Gloucester. She follows traditional English techniques and uses luxurious Swiss and Indian cottons. One of her biggest supporters was the late Duke of Beaufort, who despite his British upbringing, his style was more reminiscent of Gianni Agnelli. Made-to-measure shirts start at €475.
www.emmawillis.com, @emmawillislondon/Instagram
