The calendar read 1975, and Santoni—the Henry Ford of luxury footwear according to Robb Report—had adopted the Renaissance-era velatura dyeing technique, setting his creations apart from anything else on the market at the time. In velatura, the dyes are applied like watercolors to the leather, which is then hand-polished; this hand-dyed technique quickly made Santoni famous. While the color palette initially focused on deep blues and unusual browns, today the atelier offers a full range of colors, from bold hues to dramatic ombré.
This exquisite leather is used in the elegant shapes and classic proportions of Santoni’s footwear, from loafers to oxford brogues. As the company’s president and son of Andrea, Giuseppe Santoni, says, “our customers value unique pieces and precious products and do not follow trends.”
Every order a unique creation
Today, the company employs around 600 artisans in a 28,000-square-meter factory in Corinthia, Italy. And while many luxury brands worry when their experienced artisans retire, Santoni has ensured ongoing knowledge through the Accademia dell’Eccellenza, a fully funded training program.
As they say at Santoni, every order for a bespoke pair is a rite of passage. “The artisans engage in a dialogue with the customer, transforming their story and preferences into a refined, unique creation,” says Santoni. The price for the first pair of handmade shoes is around 7,200 euros, but it drops to 4,000 euros for the second. As they say, “time is a luxury and to produce Santoni shoes, it takes a lot of time.” The five steps to creating a pair of 100% handmade Santoni shoes.
1. Premium Leather: To achieve the intense hues that are Santoni’s trademark, the company uses the finest white calfskin leathers, which are carefully inspected by hand for any natural imperfections, such as scratches or wrinkles.
2. Pattern Placement: When placing patterns, craftsmen take into account the thickness and flexibility of the leather, as these variations determine where each piece is placed within the shoe.
3. Cutting & Drying: The shoe begins to take shape, with the upper being hand-sewn. A combination of water and mild soap is then applied, making the leather more pliable so it can be shaped around the mold, where it will be “cured” with the help of hot air for two to three weeks.
4. Sole Stitching: After the shoe upper is shaped around the mold, the sole is hand stitched. The type of sole may vary depending on the style of the shoe and the customer’s preferences.
5. Dyeing: Depending on the desired color, the time required for Santoni’s velatura process can range from hours to days. The white leather allows the atelier to create unusual colors, and artisans apply up to 15 layers of insoluble dye, waiting for each layer to dry before adding the next.
6. Sole Painting: The soles are painted orange to give a sense of joy. Instead of the thin layers of velatura, this process involves applying a much thicker paint for greater durability.
7. Hand-polished: Once the final coat of paint has dried, artisans apply beeswax to the leather and hand-brush it to create a strong shine.
