The new book “James Bond Style” released by Assouline publications captures the “stylistic” path of the famous agent through rare images.
In the 63 years of its history, the James Bond film franchise depicts both the luxurious trends of haute couture menswear and those of casual clothing of each period. “Bond, aesthetically, had to be modern but not garish, and his clothes had to be current but not dated,” says Lindy Hemming.
Fashion icon
The book lists the 007s in chronological order – Sean Connery, Roger Moore, George Lazenby, Timothy Dalton, Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig. Each actor who played the legendary agent has their own chapter, with sketches, interviews and rare footage. There are plenty of behind-the-scenes stories, from the costume designers who worked on each film – Donatella Versace, Tom Ford, Jenny Packham – to actors – from Pierce Brosnan and Daniel Craig to Michelle Yeoh and Grace Jones.
For example, the 33 bespoke Tom Ford tuxedos made for No Time To Die in record time – and received just twenty-four hours before filming – to the 20 Prada dresses for Olga Kurylenko in Quantum of Solace, the French-Ukrainian actress needed a dress for every scene. But also images from all the iconic scenes, such as the image of Ursula Andress emerging from the waves in the now famous white bikini, or Halle Berry in a shocking orange La Perla swimsuit in Die Another Day and Daniel Craig on a beach in the Bahamas at Casino Royale.
Pierce Brosnan was tall, elegant, charming, although he did not wear a lot of suits made by a good tailor. That’s why when he wore them he said he was putting on the “James Bond” armor. This consisted of beautiful ‘cut and sew’ Brioni three-piece suits, Church’s pumps, while Jermyn Street dressmakers were enlisted to supply him with shirts. The clothes were undoubtedly expensive. But silk shirts also require skilled agents. After all, 007 is the only one who will drive a Russian T-55 tank wearing a suit because in his list of priorities, saving the world does not exceed the protection of style” adds the English costume designer.
Daniel Craig, Bond No. 6, the new generation of the agent who remains one of the most popular images on the planet, is considered by many to be more “iconic” than Sean Connery. Characteristic of his “classy” style is the scene of “Skyfall” where he enters a casino in Macau. He wears a gorgeous single-breasted blue jacket, a white cotton shirt, made by Tom Ford, pique black bow tie, pearl cufflinks with white gold trim. The epitome of coolness. The concept of style of the British agent is not only left to the handling of weapons and fighting but also to his charm or cool elegance. In the same film Craig, in pursuit of his nemesis Patrice, stands on top of a moving train and without any panic on his face…fixes his cufflinks. He doesn’t hesitate to tackle his outfit first to ensure he looks his best. Because he’s James Bond.
James Bond’s costume designer says: “In more recent films we’ve dressed our villains more modestly, but even in the 1990s, we couldn’t resist wearing Kenzo menswear and Lindberg Air Titanium glasses. My love, Grace Jones as May Day in A View To A Kill, a brave actress in a stunning costume, designed by Emma Porteous and created by Azzedine Alaïa. I also loved Honor Blackman as Pussy Galore in Goldfinger (designer Bumble Dawson) as a modern, smart and dynamic female pilot.
Of my own villain costume designs, I particularly enjoyed creating Famke Janssen’s outfits for Golden Eye – she was my first female Bond and a really well-rounded and strong character. I know of no other film series that has created such a defining style for its protagonist, a style that has captivated audiences for over sixty years,” says Hemming.
*The James Bond Style book is published by Assouline publications. For more information, www.assouline.com
