From London and Paris to Naples and Tokyo, these “shoe artists” craft handcrafted creations of supreme craftsmanship. They say you can tell a lot about a person by their shoes. These shoemakers make sure their customers’ shoes tell the right story. How; Taking the time to get to know them and understand their style, so they can then create bespoke, handcrafted footwear that leaves an unforgettable impression.
1. George Cleverley, London (UK)
Born into a family of shoemakers, George Cleverley knew his path from an early age. He learned the art of shoemaking in England, how to make boots in a French camp during World War I, and in 1958 set up his own shop in Mayfair. Until he passed away in 1991 at the age of 93, he never stopped working and served a list of famous clients, including Sir Winston Churchill, Sir Lawrence Olivier, Clark Gable and Humphrey Bogart. Today the business is taken over by his close partner, George Glasgow, together with his son, and Jason Statham, David Beckham and Sir Elton John often pass through the doors of his shop.
2. Aubercy, Paris – Tokyo
The crème de la crème of French society trusts the capable hands of Xavier, grandson of André and Renée Aubercy, when looking for the perfect shoes, those that will combine the robustness of the English shoemaking tradition with French finesse. His grandfather’s workshop and shop had been operating since the interwar period on Rue Vivienne, while at the beginning of the millennium he opened his doors and shop in Ginza. In order to acquire the legendary bespoke Aubercy shoes, one will need to travel to Paris – as Xavier before making a pair makes sure to cultivate a personal relationship with the customer – and pay 5,500 euros.
3. Paulo Scafora, Naples (Italy)
Paolo Scafora and his three brothers inherited the Neapolitan shoemaking tradition from their father. The children grew up playing in their father’s workshop in Naples – smelling and touching the hides and exploring the tools. After an apprenticeship in Milan and travels around the world, where he learned the art of hand-made shoes, Paolo returned to his hometown to found the luxury house that bears his name, together with his brothers. Steeped in generations of passion and craftsmanship, the house’s shoes have a surprisingly short waiting time (just 4-6 weeks), which is due to the coordinated and harmonious work of the four brothers.
4. Hiro Yanagimachi, Tokyo (Japan)
Hand-stitched with premium materials and leathers, chosen to age gracefully and with a unique design sensibility, the Japanese designer’s shoes are strictly made to order, unlike the aforementioned shoemakers who also release ready-to-wear ranges. Hiro Yanagimachi graduated from London Cordwainers College and then returned to Japan to pursue a career as a designer. However, in 1999, he turned to handmade shoes and opened his workshop, in a pleasant and quiet neighborhood of Tokyo, near Harajuku station. There he manufactures made to order, made to measure and bespoke shoes at prices ranging from 1,750 euros for the first class up to 3,000 euros for bespoke shoes.
5. John Lobb, London (UK)
The shoes of the historic brand have stepped into all the famous clubs and great salons of Britain. According to legend, John Lobb walked hundreds of miles wearing a pair of shoes he had made himself to reach London and seek his fortune. After perfecting his craft, in 1851 he opened the first shop in Regent Street and went on to become the best shoemaker in the country. His reputation quickly spread abroad and another store followed in Paris in 1899. Although the company was acquired by the Hermes group in 1976, nothing has changed: the shoes are still made by hand in the workshop in Northampton and customers such as King Charles III, remain perfectly happy.
6. Berluti, Paris (France-EU)
A century of history, craftsmanship and creativity is summed up in a pair of bespoke Berluti. Each piece is cut, sewn and even polished by hand and of course has proportions, design and style tailored to the customer’s wishes. It all starts with a meeting in a boutique in Paris or any other city in the world, between two people who love craftsmanship: the customer and the house’s master shoemaker. The second will listen to the wishes and learn about the customer’s habits and then discuss and suggest the ideal shape, roominess of the fit, thickness of the sole, color of the lining and material – e.g. whether it will be Venezia leather or something more exotic. And after several stages in the manufacturing process, the customer will receive a pair of shoes of unparalleled craftsmanship, at a price of 5,500 euros.
7. Carmina-Madrid (Spain-EU)
In operation since 1866, Carmina has only grown in reputation, maintaining an impeccable quality of work despite expanding across the globe. The shoes are made by hand by a dedicated group of artisans who choose from over 200 lasts designed to accommodate a variety of foot shapes to provide just the right level of comfort. All shoes feature traditional Goodyear stitching for exceptional quality and durability.
8. Santoni, Italy (EU)
No list of top shoemakers would truly be complete without an Italian name on the list and Santoni, which was established in 1975, easily ranks among the best. Starting out as a family-owned workshop, it didn’t take long for the brand to grow into an international name, thanks in part to partnerships with other luxury brands such as IWC. Despite the brand’s fame, all shoes are still made by hand in Italy, and the product catalog also includes loafers and sneakers if you want a look that is casual but no less stylish.
9. Crockett & Jones, England (UK)
Brothers-in-law Charles Jones and James Crocket founded this highly respectable shoemaking company that has been owned and managed by the family for five generations. The company continues to produce painstakingly handmade shoes that have won the national and international acclaim. Two generations of the Royal Family – King George Vi and King Charles III – have visited their factory and Crocket & Jones were also the official shoemakers of none other than James Bond himself, Daniel Craig, for the films Skyfall and Spectre.
