Patagonia, the farthest tip of South America, divided between Chile and Argentina, is one of the few places on the planet where you can feel the majesty of nature so intensely. A completely different world, where icebergs and petrified forests, imposing mountains and glaciers, mirror-like lakes and wildlife create a magical atmosphere. The best way to experience the wild natural beauty of Patagonia is by hiking in Torres del Paine National Park, a World Heritage Site, with the famous granite towers that give it its name. The park covers an area of 1,810 sq km and is one of the largest and most popular national parks in Chile, attracting around 220,000 hiking enthusiasts from all over the world every year.
Punta Arenas
My dream trip to Torres del Paine National Park begins with my 20-year-old son at Punta Arenas Airport, the gateway to Chilean Patagonia. Punta Arenas is located along the Strait of Magellan, a 580km long and 20-30km wide sea passage that connects the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. It was named after the Portuguese navigator Ferdinand Magellan, who passed through it in 1520 attempting the first circumnavigation of the globe.
Punta Arenas is the largest city in the region and the gateway to some of Patagonia’s most impressive sights. From here, you can embark on an adventure cruise to Cape Horn and the glaciers of Tierra del Fuego, or hike in Torres del Paine National Park. We stay in a hotel along the coastal road. We leave our luggage in the room and go out to explore the city. Christmas is approaching and the city has a festive atmosphere. We start from Plaza Armas, the main square of Punta Arenas with mansions and the controversial monument-statue of Magellan with local figures below him. As the monument was considered by many to be a hymn to colonialism, it has often been the target of vandalism.
A few blocks up is the Maritime Museum, which houses a replica of Hernando de Magellan’s ship. Thanks to environmental sounds, replicas of everyday objects, and navigational instruments, the experience takes you back 500 years in history.
We take a coffee break and in the afternoon we go to the Turis Otway tourist office. There, a group briefing is held about the six-day trekking in Torres del Paine that we are going to follow tomorrow morning. The most popular route to see the “Must-see” of Torres del Paine is the “W circuit” route, 80 km. approximately with a duration of 6 days. The route took its name from the W shape, as it connects the most emblematic points of the national park. Beyond that, its infrastructure is extremely developed, staying in rustic shelters, with beds, hot showers and hot meals, while in the evening we relax with a cocktail.
After the briefing, we go to eat at a restaurant on the waterfront overlooking the Strait of Magellan to taste Chilean cuisine – mainly seafood – with Chilean wine, while Christmas melodies, such as “Feliz Navidad” are played from the restaurant’s speakers.
Day 1: Torres del Paine National Park
The next day, at 7:00 am, we meet the group that will be with us on the hike to Torres del Paine, which consists of seven other people from North America, Australia and New Zealand. We get into a 9-seater van and set off for the National Park. The journey to the park entrance is about 5 hours. We travel through beautiful landscapes until we reach the main entrance, Laguana Amarga. On the way, we enjoy the Patagonian pampas, which in the Quechua language means fertile plains. At some points along the route we encounter: herds of guanacos (animals that look like llamas), flamingos and two pumas.
Fifteen minutes after the city of Puerto Natales we stop to visit the Cueva del Miliodon, a natural monument formed by three caves and a rocky complex known as Silla del Diablo, where fossils of an extinct animal were found: the Milodon Darwini. After an hour we arrive at the main entrance of the park. We activate our entrance tickets and rush to the site, which offers views of the Cuerno Este and Cuerno Norte mountains.
In the evening we spend the night at Hostel Las Torres with a view of the surrounding mountains. The furniture and artwork of the 57 rooms refer to the history and culture of Patagonia. An amazing Hostel in the wonderful nature of Torres del Paine.
Day 2: Base Tower hike 8 hours (20 km)
We are in the Las Torres area at the beginning of the W circuit. Torres del Paine Park is occupied by the magnificent Cordillera del Paine mountain range with a series of beautiful mountains, such as Torres del Paine (Towers of Paine) and Los Cuervos (Horns of Paine). This unique natural wonder was formed 11 million years ago as a result of the movement of huge masses of ice that came into contact with magma and have today been transformed into granite mountains. Today we will follow the path that leads to the three towering pyramidal peaks (Torres) from which the park takes its name. The hike to Base Tower is one of the most popular and exciting routes in the park. We take the road to the valley and after a 10-minute walk we pass by an old suspension bridge that crosses the Ascencio River. We then follow a zigzag path that is uphill the entire way.
The last part of the climb is particularly difficult. However, upon reaching the base, the fatigue disappears in front of the unique view of the three huge granite peaks that rise imposingly above a turquoise lake. We rest for a while in this picturesque environment, have a snack and then take the road back.
Day 3: Los Cuernos hike 4 hours (13 km)
Today we will visit Los Cuervos (the horns), the second most famous mountain in the park. We follow the trail that crosses the shores of Lake Nordenskjold through beautiful forests. The trail is quite flat making it friendly to those who do not have much experience. In a few minutes we come across the Salto Grande waterfall, which marks the meeting point between Lake Nordenskjold and the Paine River. We arrive at the Cuervos Viewpoint. An amazing sight spreads out before us that takes our breath away, as we see the granite peaks (Los Cuernos) that are over 2000m high. The Towers of Paine that we saw the previous day and the Cuernos del Paine (horns of pain) are among the main attractions of the W Circuit hike. At night we stay at Refugio Cuernos with a view of Los Cuernos and Lake Nordenskjold.
Day 4: French Valley hike 10 hours (19 km)
The French Valley is located in the middle part of the W Trek. The diversity of landscapes: forests, thundering waterfalls, lakes, mountain ranges and glaciers make this full-day hike an ideal excursion for nature and adventure lovers. We start with the Italian campsite, which we reach after three hours. We make a short stop to rest and enjoy the packed lunch that has been provided to us since the previous night. We continue walking for about an hour and a half along a path, through a lenga (beech) forest to finally reach the French Lookout.
A huge amphitheater with a stunning view of the jagged peaks of Paine Grande, the largest mountain range in the park, and the glaciers that as we look at them, we see huge blocks of ice breaking and falling with force into the valley below, creating a deafening noise that echoes throughout the valley. Of all these ice giants, the French glacier is the most impressive. After the valley, the trail continues to the Paine Grande refuge, which is located on the shores of Lake Pehoe and where we are going to spend the night. Before dinner, the whole group gathers in the hotel bar, which is located on the first floor with a magnificent view of Lake Pehoe to plan the next day’s hiking.
Day 5: Gray Glacier hike 4 hours (11 km)
The hike to explore the Gray Glacier, the largest in Torres del Paine, begins with the destination Mirador Lago Grey, which we reach after a 6 km walk. Mirador Lago Grey is a beautiful stone viewing platform that shows us the lake in all its glory. Among the mountain ranges, the towering Gray Glacier stands out. The vast expanse of the glacier, with a width of more than 6 km. and a height of up to 30 meters, creates an unforgettable panorama. We take photos, rest for a while and then walk along the shoreline of Gray Lake with the stunning view of the lake, scattered with floating icebergs drifting in the lake’s waters. Late in the afternoon we head along a path to the Gray Refugio.
Day 6: Lago Pehoe hike 4 hours (11 km)
Today is the last day in Torres del Paine National Park. In the morning we leave for Lake Pehoe to take the catamaran that will take us to Pudeto, the end point of the W trek which is also the exit of the park. The trip to the lake does not only transport us from one point to another, but also invites us to immerse ourselves in the majesty of nature. Reaching the end of the route and just before we reach the exit of the park, I take one last look behind me. I finally think that it is no coincidence that Torres del Paine is considered one of the most spectacular parks in the world. Arriving in Pudeto, the van is waiting for us to take us to Punto Arenas.
Pucon
The next morning we fly to the city of Pucon, located in Araucania. Nestled in the Patagonian Andes, next to Lake Villaricca under the shadow of the active volcano of the same name, the city is located 650km. south of Santiago and 1,700km. north of Punto Arenas. This small city of 25,000 indigenous Mapuche inhabitants has become the leading tourist resort in Southern Chile for those who like outdoor activities, such as white water rafting, climbing to the top of the volcano, hiking, mountain biking, winter skiing, fishing and for those who prefer a slower pace there is golf and thermal springs to relax. During our few days in Pucon, we choose to climb, with a guide, the Villarica volcano, which resembles Mount Fuji in Japan.
Our hiking climb starts at 1200 m. After six hours of climbing we reach the snowy peak, at 2,800 m. From here, in addition to the crater, we enjoy a 360-degree view of the cities of Pucon and Villarica, the nearby lakes and other volcanoes in the area. Then we descend in half the time it took us to climb. During the hike we talk with our guides about the indigenous peoples of the Andes. The next day we raft down the Trancura River, with an 8-person raft, passing through forests, waterfalls and unique landscapes with the adrenaline reaching its peak, as it is a 13 km adventure in the rapids of the river.
On the last day of our stay in Chile, we take a horseback ride to enjoy the view and atmosphere of the Aracuania region of Chile. With a small group, we ride on trails that lead us through lush forests to open pastures. There we meet the “cowboys of South America”, the gauchos, who are natives who are involved in livestock farming and live in open plains. We return to Pucon late in the afternoon. In the evening, we try local cuisine. We choose Patasca, a traditional dish that is a soup with corn, potatoes, pork and beef.
Valparaiso
On the last two days of our trip, before our return to Greece, tired and excited from all the activities we experienced in Patagonia, to relax we go to the hippiest city in Chile, the “Jewel of the Pacific”, as Valparaiso is known. The city, which is surrounded by hills, was the most important commercial port on the sea routes of the Pacific coast of South America that connected the Atlantic and Pacific oceans through the Strait of Magellan. From 1880 until the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914, the city had a significant commercial impact.
The bohemian atmosphere that prevails in the city, the colorful buildings, the music that plays on all the streets, and the hills that embrace the city, have made it a favorite, not only of backpackers, but also of many artists and poets, including the famous Chilean Pablo Neruda (1904-1973) – who lived in La Sebastiana, as he named the house in which he lived and which has now been converted into a museum.
As we took the cable car up the hill to visit the home of the great Chilean poet, I remembered one of his favorite verses: “Feeling the love of the people we love is a fire that feeds our lives.” An amazing five-story house overlooking the port of Valparaiso, which houses collections of his personal belongings. When I think of Valparaiso today, the first thing that comes to mind is its colorful streets, full of art and colors. Every wall, step and corner is a canvas transformed by artists into something unique. We walk the streets for a long time, stopping only to try empanadas (small pastries filled with meat and vegetables).
On the last evening of our trip, we go to one of the most beautiful spots in Valparaiso, the historic “Bar Cinzano”, which has been welcoming visitors for the last 120 years. Here, in addition to the wonderful live music, you watch people dancing tango, the dance of passion. A very nice place for authentic and fun vibes and of course to say goodbye to this wonderful country.
