When the conversation about whiskey begins, things get complicated. The reason lies in the fact that it is not a simple drink, but a spirit with great semantic significance. Whiskey symbolizes heritage and craftsmanship. The aging process, artisanal production methods and distinctions (e.g. Scotch, Irish, bourbon) embody a sense of history and authenticity. These elements indicate values such as patience, mastery and respect for tradition, making whiskey an emblem of cultural heritage.
However, the art of whiskey is not limited to Scotland, a country with a great tradition of centuries in the production of this drink. For decades, Japan has been a strong rival in this market. Thanks to the success of established brands such as Yamazaki, Hibiki and Nikka (which celebrated its 90th anniversary this year), the reputation – and sales – of Japanese whisky have monopolized purchasing interest and have acquired an even greater prestige, which of course translates into their price.
A Legacy of Excellence
The roots of Japanese whisky date back to the early 20th century, when Masataka Taketsuru, often called the “father of Japanese whisky,” brought whisky-making techniques from Scotland to Japan. Taketsuru studied organic chemistry at the University of Glasgow and apprenticed at various Scottish distilleries, learning the art of distillation and blending. Returning to Japan, he applied his knowledge to help establish the country’s first whisky distillery, Yamazaki, in 1923, with Suntory.
Taketsuru’s influence didn’t end there, though. He went on to found Nikka Whisky in 1934, creating the Yoichi distillery in Hokkaido, inspired by the climate and geography of Scotland. These pioneering efforts laid the foundation for Japan’s whisky industry, combining Scottish tradition with Japanese precision and artistry.
In the post-war period, Japanese whisky began to gain domestic popularity, initially closely imitating Scotch. Over time, Japanese distilleries developed their own unique style, emphasizing harmony and balance. The 21st century has seen a surge in international recognition, with whiskies such as Yamazaki Sherry Cask 2013 being named the best in the world, cementing Japan’s reputation as a global whisky powerhouse.
A new generation of whisky
While iconic distilleries continue to set the standard, a new generation of Japanese whisky makers is emerging, bringing fresh ideas and creative approaches to the industry. These pioneers are pushing the boundaries and creating unique expressions that challenge traditional norms. The new generation of whisky is not just about bold flavours and experimental techniques. Many distilleries are embracing sustainability, recognising the importance of protecting Japan’s pristine natural resources. From sourcing local ingredients to adopting environmentally friendly production processes, these efforts are ensuring that the legacy of Japanese whisky will endure for generations to come. This year has seen some particularly significant releases from Suntory, owner of the Yamazaki and Hakushu single malt distilleries, as well as the Hibiki blended Japanese whisky brand. The first of these is the remarkable “Suntory Tsukuriwake Cask Collection” retailing at €4,500 and representing four different single malt whiskies. Notable releases included:
Hibiki: Suntory’s flagship blended whisky, which launched the 40-year-old Hibiki to date. Limited to just 400 bottles and retailing for around €40,000, it is arguably the pinnacle of master distiller Shinji Fukuyo’s long and award-winning career. It was created using a blend of five ingredients, including Yamazaki whiskies from 1978 and 1983, which were matured in American white oak puncheon barrels, a slightly dry Hakushu from 1981, a light and buttery grain whisky distilled in 1979 and 1981 from the Chita distillery, and robust and complex Yamazaki casks (sherry and Mizunara oak) from 1980 and 1983 respectively.
Yamazaki 18-Year-Old Mizunara Oak: This edition showcases the magnificent interplay between Yamazaki’s signature single malt and Japan’s native Mizunara oak casks. The result is a whisky with notes of sandalwood, incense and dried fruit, embodying a distinctly Japanese profile.
Mars Komagatake 2024 Limited Edition: Distilled in the cool alpine climate of Nagano, this expression combines influences from sherry and bourbon barrels, offering a rich flavor of dark chocolate, orange peel and roasted almonds.
Hakushu 18-Year-Old Peated Edition: Known for its light, forest-inspired flavors, Hakushu takes a bold turn with this limited-edition peated malt. It strikes a delicate balance between smokiness and herbal freshness, a testament to the distillery’s versatility.
Yamazaki Golden Promise: Distilled using a once legendary strain of barley – a Yamazaki finished in an Islay cask (which brings an elegant, sweet, medicinal smoke).
The world of Japanese whisky is evolving, combining the wisdom of tradition with the courage of innovation. This year’s releases have confirmed Japan’s place at the forefront of the global whisky scene, while the rise of new distilleries promises an exciting future. Whether you’re a seasoned connoisseur or a curious newcomer, there’s never been a better time to explore the rich and dynamic landscape of Japanese whisky.
