The “quiet” approach to men’s fashion begets a relaxed, sophisticated and ultimately classy aesthetic and outlook. Something that perhaps shouldn’t be limited to just the realm of style.
What is the first thing that comes to mind when you hear the words high fashion, (not yet silent) luxury and style? I’m sure you don’t immediately place – or at least you haven’t until now – Kendall Roy of Succession anywhere near that. And yet, the character played by Jeremy Strong in the absolute television hit of the year, was one of the occasions to expand the conversation much further than what is happening on your screen.
KR’s clothes in the line do not, in any case, scream aspiration. But somehow, the seemingly simple bomber jackets, baseball caps, “blank” T-shirts and all the rest contribute to his extremely elegant to classy style and are probably enough to create the top trend worldwide right now: Welcome in the era of Quiet Luxury, “Silent Luxury”.
Excessive display of wealth has (roughly) always been considered abject to any sane person who doesn’t carry repulsions, although we’ve often seen revivals of the concept of understated elegance in current – see Succession – or earlier versions of pop culture. The biggest houses, the weirdest designer logos, the flashiest cars – all are shunned in favor of minimalist spaces, subtle branding, understated sophistication.
It is a reflection of the individual’s personal preferences and style, which triumphs over the visual impact of any product. It’s about choosing the invisible and inconspicuous over the flashy and overexposed. It’s under the radar and not in your face.
Clothing choices and accessories that look seemingly simple but at the same time polish their quality in a quiet way, do not show off any wealth. On the contrary, they reinforce him in a jealous way. Refinement is determined by understatement taste.
As in Succession’s strategically chosen styling propositions, grey, beige and generally earthy tones take center stage in quiet/silent/call-it-what-you-want luxury, along with cashmere, silk and wool. They are understated, high-quality pieces that always seem to fit the wearer. The clothes themselves are like saying, “Yeah, the guy paid a lot but it’s still a drop in the ocean for him.”
Shall we remind you what came before this? Almost immediately before that? For a while, the biggest brands in men’s – and not only – fashion wanted for some inexplicable reason to make noise. Did they want to reach the masses, who are known to have no taste? Did they want to open up to the nouveau riche audience with existential stuff? Did they run out of inspiration and say to play with a YOLO die? No one can answer with certainty, precision and clarity except perhaps the Creative Directors of the houses.
But the ones in the house, not in the municipality. We won’t lie to you, it was fun – maybe because it lasted for a while, although some still go on about it giving the rather disparaging looks and comments of the rest. We’re sure it won’t be the first or the last time, as the pendulum will continue to swing.
One of the most characteristic examples is (also) Mark Zuckerberg. Facebook’s CEO tends to wear the same gray T-shirt almost…always. At first glance, one would say that he bought it from a low cost supermarket chain. In fact, it costs over 650 euros and is custom made to order by the mysterious Brunello Cucinelli. And Zuckerberg owns hundreds of such copies.
The more good taste one has, the less one shows it. Or more correctly, he demonstrates it, flexes it as the dozens of inept trappers say. He doesn’t, you see, need to – the image often speaks for itself. Paradoxically, the same is true with his wallet, without this being absolute.
Quiet Please
Quiet Luxury could be said to be the old money style visualized and adapted to today. In other words, the complete opposite of what we see happening in the streets and shops of well-known western capitals or by hordes of semi-famous wannabes who have nothing to do with good food and what it stands for, in the most popular (and expensive) restaurants of each capital. You know, the ones with the raised collars, huge logos, or flashy details that often make them look like billboards.
On the other hand, of course, perhaps there is arrogance in all this. Seemingly simple choices that require exceptional craftsmanship that ends craftsmanship, top quality materials and often tap into the logic of “if you know, you know”. Yes, many times it is not only silent luxury but hidden wealth. The stealth wealth that is preached in North America as well.
Where exactly do we want to end up? In short, a less is more approach to those that make up your external image is not bad. Of course, the same should probably apply to thinking, lifestyle, and public discourse. We deserve a modest, careful and careful, unpretentious attitude towards things and what we experience. Even if it is unattainable for most, just like a Brunello Cucinelli, Tom Ford, Brioni or Loro Piana piece.
